Thursday, April 20, 2006

Lanterns, Ladies, Monks and Hanboks

The Lotus Lantern Lighting Ceremony took place on April 18th in front of the City Hall. I hadn't planned on attending, but quite tired of my office and computer I needed a breath of fresh yellow dust, which was very, very, seriously very bad on Tuesday. When I got to the City Hall, the Ceremony was about to start. Lots of monks and nuns and well-dressed middle-aged and older people were milling about, carrying beautiful lanterns. I walked around the area with my camera, listening to the beautiful chanting of the choir dressed in pale-green and maroon hanboks. Two kind ajummas gave me my own lantern. It was the time well spent, as the lanterns and hanboks shimmered and glittered against the treacherous darkness of the city. A very traditional ceremony in the midst of the very modern city centre represented Korean nation well: a traditional heart in the midst of the modern economic hub. Posted by Picasa

Spotted at the scene of the Ceremony - pots upon pots of tulips. In his delightful travelogue "Korea, The Land of Miracles," Simon Winchester calls Seoul " a spectacularly ugly capital." He was here in the late 1980s. I can only imagine what it looked like back then. I could see changes for the better in less than four years of my sojourn here. Seous is not a spectaculary, or truth be told, not even fairly beautiful city, but it's slowly getting there. Koreans are trying to make their city neater and friendlier. Right now, the whole city seems to be exploding in all kinds of blossoms: tulips, forsithyas, azaleas, lilac... The spring was late and all flowers are coming out at the same time. It's quite nice. I don't think that Seoul (overall) deserves the description of a spectacularly ugly city. It's more like an ugly duckling turning into a teenage duckling with the hope of one day becoming a full grown handsome duck (a swan, frankly, I can't imagine).  Posted by Picasa

Buddhism and big modern buildings? They seem to match quite nicely here, the pagoda and Seoul Plaza Hotel  Posted by Picasa

The Downtown Monks in their festive bests- a bit incongrous, as many things in Korea are. Endearing, too.  Posted by Picasa

And a full-length of the young couple who walked at the head of the procession. They were incredibly composed and dignified for their young age. I find the boy's sensibly greyish sneakers in funny contrast to the rest of his intensely coloured garb.  Posted by Picasa

I found this grandma-child pair absolutely adorable. I was always at their heels, taking pix as discretely as possible. Out of dozens, I chose this one as most representing their trusting-assisting relationship.  Posted by Picasa

Yeaah! A couple of pretty ladies gave me my own lantern (that came in the way of my handling the camera, but made me feel more like I had belonged there). In the background is a huge illuminated pagoda Posted by Picasa

The two very friendly and kind ajummas who gave me my own lantern and werre only too happy to pose for me with bright smiles.  Posted by Picasa

Lots of women at the ceremony wore hanboks in various colour combinations. This one looks very plush in deep yellow and rich red.  Posted by Picasa

The Choir ladies dressed in delicate pale-green hanbok. They sang and chanted beautifully  Posted by Picasa

The Choir from the back.  Posted by Picasa

Women wearing hanboks and carrying lanterns, in a procession, in front of the City Hall.  Posted by Picasa

Monks and nuns in a procession, chanting and praying.  Posted by Picasa

After the ceremony was over, the atmosphere was quite joyful. The women and monks broke into this spontaneous dance aroudn the lanterns. You can't see it on this picture clearly, but the dancers actually include a few monks. In KOrea, unlike in Thailand, it's not a taboo for a woman to physically touch a monk.  Posted by Picasa

Monks kept their shoes on, while some women placed their precious pretties on the grass and enjoyed the dance barefoot.  Posted by Picasa

And a close up of the embroidered silk shoes that accompany Korean hanbok.  Posted by Picasa

Traditional porkers?! This couple of piggies stand in front of a galbi (rib bbq) restaurant in a little alley that's a shortcut from Jongagk to Insa-dong.  Posted by Picasa

There's a wonderful collection of huge carricatures on billboards that have to do with soccer, close to Gwanghamun and the City Hall. Each carricature comes from a different country. Korea's once again in the soccer craze with the World Cup in Germany just around the corner.  Posted by Picasa

Korea's hottest androgynous 'kotminam' (flower man). The guy appeared in the movie "King's jester," and, reportedly, ever since, many Asian women have been swooning over him. I am swooning over the delicious pommegranate juice he's advertising. He's cute 'n' all but a tad too girly - what's withe lip gloss and purple-pink clothes. He's streching across the side of a bus shelter close to Gwanghwamun.  Posted by Picasa

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Should human milk flow in the class?



Last Friday I had to play a model in front of the library with students cheering on and hollering catcalls at me and my colleague Derek, decked out in professional suits. How embarassing! The pics will be published in our uni's promotional brochure due next month (with the addition of Brian and Douglas, who will be photo-shopped in). I was also asked by a student PR rep to recollect a memorable teaching moment.
I'd racked my brains over what to choose out of hundreds possibilities, finally settling on a funny class I taught about 2 years ago.
Here are the contents of the soon-to-be published minute article:
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April’s Fool’s Day
Two years ago, in the spring semester of 2004, I taught a big but truly wonderful first-year Basic English Conversation class. All of our time together was memorable, but one class in particular stands out.
It was Thursday, April 1st, April Fool’s Day, so I decided to teach a cultural unit related to it. Firmly believing that “what’s learned with pleasure is learned full-measure,” in lieu of a warm-up, I pulled a prank on my students.
The inspiration for the prank came from a newspaper article about specialized restaurants in China, which prepare very expensive dishes from human milk. Before the class, I filled an unusually shaped little bottle featuring gold Chinese characters on its brown cap with a mixture of half-water half-soy milk and a few drops of vanilla extract and coffee. The ‘drink’ was quite transparent and had a sickly yellowish tinge to it. In class, after taking attendance, I pulled the bottle out of my bag and asked the students: “Can you guess what’s in here?” After some futile attempts at guessing, I said: “You’ll find it hard to believe, but this is a very expensive little bottle of human milk from China, given to me by a friend.” I managed to keep a deadly serious face while proceeding to relate the story about the specialized human milk restaurants in China.
Many students were making faces in disgust. To shock them further, I said that it didn’t actually taste bad. I unscrewed the cap and offered the “human milk” for tasting. No volunteers. I took a tiny sip, then another one. Oh, the disbelief on their faces! I don’t know how I managed not to laugh. The class was now in upheaval, shaking their heads and looking at me as if I had landed from another planet. “How can you drink that?” someone yelled in disgust. It was only after I saw a student cover his pale lips with his hand in an attempt not to get sick, that I said: “Relax, I’m just pulling your leg. This is soy milk with vanilla extract - today’s April Fool’s Day.” Many students have already heard about it and realized at once what I was doing. Explanations in English and Korean were flying around the classroom. A big collective sigh of relief swept across the classroom followed by a wave of roaring laughter that didn’t stop for quite a while. I stood there, laughing with them and sipping my ‘human milk from China.” They learned hands-on about April Fool’s Day, a lesson, I hope, they will never forget – I am sure I won’t.
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Speaking of "human milk" there's an enriched dairy product in Korea, most unfortunately named "Mother's Milk." It comes in a small plastic bottle and features a picture of a young hand writing on a pad of paper. What the image and the name evoke in Koreans is the warm feeling they got (or are getting) as their moms brought them a cup of milk in those long hours cramming for the big uni-entrance exam. No one thinks about a woman's breast or that the contents of the bottle might come from this source. I am, however, so turned off by the name, and I can't make myself by it, although it contains many important vitamins and minerals.
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I booked the ticket to T.O. for July 14th, managing to meet all my objectives in purchasing it:
1. it's about 300,000 won cheaper than the offers from umpteen other agencies I'd contacted
2. The stopovers are reasonable, meaning no U.S. stopovers. After the gruelling Chicago experience last year, I say NO to landing in US on the way to Canada
3. No American Airlines. I still have nightmares in which their scary big-haired flight attendants loom large. It's my right to refuse to listen to another begrudging sentence beginning with, " I'm sorry, M'am, but since 9/11 we've been trying to stay afloat and keep our jobs - we cannot give you a glass of wine/extra sandwich/orange juice, peanuts." By the end of the flight I felt it to much of an imposition on the poor crew to even ask for a glass of water. On the other hand, my bloody ticket costs me an arm and a leg, and I do expect a glass of wine and a friendly flight attendant in return. If AA cannot provide that, perhaps it's time for them to sink, or restructure, or take 'human skills' courses. I'm flying Cathay Pacific this time. North American airlines should learn a thing or two about customer service from their Asian counterparts. Until they do, I'll keep choosing those airlines with smily flight attendants, free drinks and decent food. They inevitably happen to be from Asia, or sometimes Europe: Thai Air, Air India, ANA, JAL, even the tiny Air Bangkok. Now, for the first time I'll try Cathay Pacific. Can't wait.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Easter '06

Picture taken by Clare. Oh, dear, what's that above me? The Holy Spirit?
Chris had a wonderful idea: let's have an Easter picnic at Yeouido in the shade of cherry blossoms. After SMS-ing we managed to meet at the park along Hangang- us and the 3/4 of Asian population on their pilgrimage to enjoy the cherry blossoms. It was a cool windy but sunny day which made the river and the sky very blue. We had great food and good wine. When it became too cold, we met Jungshik and his company car that transported us to the smokey warmth of Geckos where we consumed more food and drinks. We also met Marja there. I played darts with Chris and some other people, not doing poorly at all. It was a nice relaxing Easter with friends. Hallleluyah!(I was quite a Hemmingway here - short and concise - no frills!)

You see the proof: the sky and the river in Seoul can be quite blue - the photo is not retouched!  Posted by Picasa

Our Easter picnic was quite delectable: Clare brought her wonderful Costco-bought cheesecake (that she and I had half devoured on Good Friday). There was good cheese, good bread, Rice Crisps (my faves, imported to Canada from Taiwan, then exported to Korea - go figure!), ham, strawberries, kimbap (more elegantlly known as California Rolls), and wine, of course, wine, in my crystal wine glasses. Posted by Picasa

The sunshine girls. They were merrily walking in front of me. I could see their bodies swimming in the beautiful late-afternoon sunlight. I could imagine how lovely their faces would be in it, so I shouted: "Hey, girlies." They turned around, just as I released the shutter. They are fab! Posted by Picasa

The juvenile Jungshik at Gecko's

Actually, he's not juvenile anymore. He says he's lonely. I say: there's always beer, and wine... and chocolate. Posted by Picasa

Gourmet at Geckos

The only civilized way to eat french-fries (chips, to all you Brits) is WITH MAYO. Just ask the Belgians! Ah, memories, sweet memories, of my few days in Brussesl when my diest consisted of chocolate, beer, waffles with whipped cream and chocolate sauce and - naturallly Les frites avec mayonnaise. Posted by Picasa