Friday, May 13, 2005

The end of my sad spinsterly paper-graderly life

No, I'm not getting hitched, if that's what you've conjured form the title. I am simply glad that this week is over. TGIF! TGIF! ("Thank Goodness It's Friday" for all of you English as a foreign language speakers). Once again I've been proven as the world's biggest procrastinator. My students submitted their papers around mid-April and I've just finished marking today. One tiny little thing that I can say in my defence: I have lots of students and many many papers are so poorly written that it takes me ages just to figure out what the heck their topic is. To do my good students justice, some papers were fantastics, well-organized and executed in beautiful flowing English sentences. Marking - this is the nightmarish aspect of any teaching job.

My whole week was one big sad exhausting lonely marking affair (except yesterday when I had to do all those other things: visit my doctor, hairdresser, have Korean class, dinner and theatre with Prof. Koh (in that order).
Sunday, most of the day I marked; most Monday taught but still marked at dawn and during my midday break; Tuesday, marked; Wednesday, the same; Thursday a breather (although I marked a bit while savouring Chardonnay and Creme Brule -as a reward for a 6kg weight loss and 1cm height gain [go figure]- on the terrace of La Cigalle); today marked again. BUT IT's OVER NOW, thank all saints in the heavens. Whatsmore, I got only a few complaints about grades, although I was unusally 'generous' with F's for plagiarism and low grades. I even used red-ink pens - an absolute no-no with all good friendly teachers. This time I really wanted my students to see why they did so poorly. Some papers looked more like abstract paintings in white red and black than written text.
As luck would have it, of course, this was a week when most of my friends called with tempting suggestions to do this or that fabulous-fun activity: Buddha's Birthday Lotus Lantern Parade, drinks, movies, theatre... and I had to refuse all of it (except the theatre) . I blogged a lot, as you can see, but this happened during my half hour breaks. I behaved exactly like a prisoner who writes in his or her diary 'cause he can't go any place else and is tired from same old same old.
So, darlings, if you suffer from a vacation envy syndrome and if you find yourself more and more resentful of me as the summer approaches, remember this: I've been working my sorry ass off and after a short respite next week it'll start all over again and it'll be absolutely crazy with final exams (oral and written), final assignments, grade calculations, - and I am sure- some horrible editing jobs that will inevitably find their way to my desk in the midst of it all.
Yes, I have long vacations, but as god is my witness and my tired sallow face - I deserve and need it. Blue skies and blue seas! - here I come, soon, very soon.

The most recent hike on May 7th, Suraksan, Seoul.My ultimate Kodak moment, courtesy of a fellow Canadian from Vancouver, Douglas. While I was hanging on for dear life going down, he climbed back half way assisted by the rope with iron clips shown here. I am glad that he was so fearless, or otherwise I would not have this amazing photo.  Posted by Hello

Thursday, May 12, 2005

Do blondes really have more fun?

I wish I had a digital camera! Seriously! I, who usually couldn't care less about taking photographs. I guess having filled out about 300 albums presently collecting dust in my older brother's house made me lose appetite for clicking away. But why do I want it today? Because I wish that you, dear friends and family, could see my perfect hair! Yes, perfect! In my eyes, at least, and that's what matters.
I was trying to hold out and have my hair done in Canada, but I just couldn't stand seeing more and more shiny gray hairs sticking out of my dark roots . Soo, I went to Itaewon to a hairdresser recommended by Angela, a hiking buddy.
After about two hours in which 3 hairdressers highlighted, washed, 'manicured' (as they call conditioning treatment here in Korea), blow-dryed and straightened, straightened, straightened my hair, I ended up with the coolest hair-do I've ever had. My hair didn't look like my hair at all - it was replaced by a smooth silky shiny golden curtain that framed my face in the most flattering of ways. I am sorry for all the gushing - but seriously, I can't remeber when I left a hair-salon feeling like this: happy!

As I walked, I would stop every 2 seconds in front of a window shop pretending to "eye-shop" while I was actually admiring my own reflection and wondering:could that be my hair? Without all the darn curls and ringlets it looked about 10cm longer, as if I had extensions.

Now, back to my question: do blondes really have more fun? According to my little private observation of today, they do. Protected by enormous black faux-Escada sunglasses I observed the male populuation to see if they would observe me, or rather my blonde mane - and observed they did. The experiment may be flawed - I simply could have been too big a target to be missed by somewhat shorter male population of Seoul. I had my favorite girly lace-ups that brought the top of my aformentioned great hair to about 178 cm or more. (Sadly, as I am typing this, half of my hair is back to its normal wavey 'n' frizzy state).

What am I to do? Should I rush to a department store and buy a hair strightener and at the ripe old age finally become one of those girls who actually don't just wash and go? What is it about shiny blonde hair? Is it simply that it's easier to notice, that it stands out in the sea of darker shades, like a lamp or a light bulb in the night? Or do "Gentlemen [really] prefer blondes" for whatever mysterious reason? Anyhow, I don't want to go to sleep and turn my marvelous blonde head into a messy bed head. Who needs to sleep anyway?

A poster for "Comfort Women" in New York. A play that moved me profoundly and make me shed buckets of tears.  Posted by Hello

Scenes from "Comfort Women". The first one shows young Hanako and old Hanako hugging in one of the harrowing last scenes. The second shows Hanako (the older woman), a ghost of her mother, and a Japanese officer.  Posted by Hello

"Hanako" - "Comfort Women"

Today I spent my Thursday evening neither participating in the merrymenet of yet another ladies' night in Itaewon nor staying at home trying to catch up on work or rest or cleaning, or all of them.... Tonight yours truly was a regular culture vulture who devoured a great play in Daehangno, - and what's more a play entirely in Korean.
Prof. Koh, my colleague and Korean teacher, invited me to come along. I thought: why not? It'd be interesting to see how much I can enjoy watching a play in a langauge that I don't understand.
I am so glad I went.I didn't have any problems understanding what was going on in the play. I was profoundly moved by it - and at the end I got to meet and chat with the playwright, the American-Korean poet, Chungmi Kim, as well as with her friend who happened to be the president of the Korean Committe for Solving the Problem of Comfort Women (a very rough translation of the name). Both women, blessed with noble features and regal talk and walk, cut quite dashing figures while solemnly and obligingly answering questions from the audience.

The difficult topic dealt with in Comfort women is quite well known, but here's the jist (condensed from a web site on the Internet): Between 1937 and 1945, the Japanese Imperial Forces conscripted or abducted about 200,000 young women, some as young as 12, from Asian countries to serve as sex slaves, known euphemistically as “comfort women,” for more than 2 million Japanese troops and officers. Most women, though, were Korean. They were forced to work in brothels all over the Pacific area . At the end of the war, many of the comfort women were killed and some committed suicide. Those who survived suffered in silence, isolation, poverty, and shame, and their stories remained buried for decades. In 1991, the first survivor of the comfort houses broke the silence. Since then, others have come forward demanding justice and reparations from the Japanese government. There are at present only about a hundred survivors in South Korea.
(Tonight, three of those survivors were scheduled to have a question-answer period after the play. Unfortunately, as the playwright tearfully explained, they were too fragile and sick to travel to Seoul. ). The Tokyo government has apologized for its wartime atrocities, but refuses to accept responsibility for the comfort women, known in Japanese as ianfu, saying the trade was the work of private entrepreneurs.

The play was originally called Hanako by the Japanese name of one of the sex slaves, but later the title was changed to Comfort Women. It was first staged in English in New York and it was fairly successful, won several awards.

The play centers around three old women who used to be 'comfort women' in the past. It is set in L.A. (anyhow, somewhere in the U.S.A). Hanako lives in the U.S.A. and has a loving granddaughter who one day brings to her house two old Korean women on an official visit to the U.S.A. for the purpose of testifying against the Japanese war atrocities.
Hanako is not very welcoming. The other women's attempts to talk about the past she vehemently refuses and claims that she was not touched by the war in any other way except for the loss of her brother; however, at one point she reaches to hang an object on the wall and reveals a tattoo on her back by which she is recognized as a former comfort woman. One of the visiting women was her friend during their horrendous times as sex slaves in Osaka. Hanako then goes through an awful night of remembering her ordeal: being abducted from her home, raped, beaten, tips of her fingers cut off, humiliated,ostracized... Throughout her agony ( powerfully evoked on the stage by an enormouosly talented actress and the interchanging horrible bright red and sickly yellow light that illuminates her contorted face and body, by smoke, and horrendous sounds) a ghost of her mother comes to her, sings to her, tries to comfort her. I just couldn't stop weeping seeing her writhing on the stage, her pain looking so real and her longing for her mother's comfort impossibly touching. In the morning her granddaugther finds her lying motionless on the bed. Another heart-wrenching scene when the granddaugther tries to revive her grondmother - and succeeds. At the very end, Hanako asks for the window in her living room to be opened (earlier she wouldn't let anyone open it), and bright sunlight comes in illuminating granddaugther and grandmother hugging firmly.
It seems that the message Ms. Kim sends with her play is how important it is to deal with your past, whatever it is. Hanako denied hers for the longest time, never finding peace, never letting the sun shine on her. In the end she is released from her inner prison once she was forced to come to terms with her past. Is this also the message to the Japanese to acknowledge their crimes and pay adequately for them? No doubt about it - especially after I saw her in a friendly embrace with the President of the Committee for solving the problem of former comfort women. So far, Japan has done very little. In 1995, the government initiated a special fund, made up of individual and corporate donations, to pay each former sex slave about $23,000 - almost the same sum as the U.S. paid to its citizens of Japanese descent who were placed in internment camps during the war. Many women refused to accept the money, arguing that the private funding allowed the government to sidestep its responsibility. Last year, a court in Japan ordered the government to pay $2,300 to each of three survivors who had demanded $4.3 million in damages. They rejected the offer and plan to appeal. What' ll happen remains to be seen.

Thsi play reminded me of "Vagina monologuse" , actually of one particular segment, the one about Bosnian women who were raped by Serbs during the Balkan war. How much harder is a war for a woman than a man? In how many different ways does a woman suffer at times of war: abducted, raped, humiliated, mutilated, dehumanized, despised...
I just can't stop thinking about the play. It moved me beyond anything that I've seen in a long long time. My own paternal grandmother was born just before the WWI started; she survived the WWII but saw her husband killed in front of her own eyes, three of her six children died of sickness and/or hunger during a 500 km march with other refuges who were running away from the wrath of communist partisans...My mother's family lost everything: a couple of sons, my grandfather's carpentry, all of their land...I'll write about this perhaps some other time...
Back to my Thursday evening at the Theatre: After the play Prof. Koh and I walked from Daehangno to Hansung campus, 'hiking' over Naksan. A beautiful new moon, air crisp and clean, not too many people. I enjoyed walking side by side with this kind smart woman who every once in a while would grab my hand to get me out of harm's way ( as serious as a rollerblading kid, a delivery ajoshi on his clattering motorbike, a group of ajummas marching for fitness...). She did this so naturally and affectionately, just like a regular mother would do. Oddly, all the weeping and a whole roller-coaster of emotions didn't leave me drained but somehow almost uplifted. I guess it's true that tears wash away a lot of poisonous stuff...at least sometimes.

Wednesday, May 11, 2005

1st year students (or freshmen, if you want to insist on that old-fashioned sexist term). I probably teacht or have taught most of them in the last two semesters. Some of them are 2ne and 3rd year students responsible for organization and execution of the MT.  Posted by Hello

Lee Soo-ji (F) and Kim, Young-soo. These two keep taking my classes over and over again - it's our 4th semester together. Very outgoing smart young people. Posted by Hello

Young-soo and assistant keep the bench steady while contestants try to keep their hair out of the flour-filled plates and look for candies hidden there -using their noses and tongues. Posted by Hello

Su-ji, a student of mine, was the slowest. Just seconds before I took this photo, the area behind her looked like a battlefield with 10 or so competing students stumbling, falling and bumping into each other in an attempt to get to the bench and look for candies as fast as possible. Posted by Hello

Divided into teams, students had to pair up and have a race with one students standing on top of the feet of another - with a ballon squeezed them. Upon reaching a marked spot on the other side of the room, they had to hug tightly, pop the balloon with their bodies, and race back. Derek and I were very good at this game. His team was just a bit faster - I guess he is just a bit stronger than me. Posted by Hello

Professors performing in front of students.  Posted by Hello

Derek and his hunky student (darn he's not in my class!) in a game of passing an onion ring via chopsticks. They were the fastest and their team won.  Posted by Hello

My Canadian colleague Derek O'Connell and my Korean teacher who I adore, Prof. Koh. She speaks beautiful English, knows everything one can possibly know about literature, has a sweet smile and is a great teacher. Tomorrow she's taking me to the theatre to see a play about Korean comfort women.  Posted by Hello

Esteemed professors relaxing on a verandah of our MT (membership training) venue, a big cottage in the woods surrounding Kangcheon. The "half-man" on the left is this year's Head of the Department ( in Korea that title is passed from one prof to another each year). Last year it was Prof. Moon (the woman in the middle) and the year before Prof. Om, who hired me and who's on sabbatical thia year. Posted by Hello

Korean and foreing professors: Moon, Lee, Turalija. Guess who's not Korean? Posted by Hello

My colleagues: Prof. Moon, Prof. Kim, and Prof. Lee (all with typical Korean last names). The last one is very popular among female students 'cause he (supposedly) looks like one of the Korean movie stars (the older brother from Taegukki).  Posted by Hello

Prof. Moon pretending to be a hiker (she had high heels).  Posted by Hello

Not quite ready to pose. Whoever took this photo really liked the tree.  Posted by Hello

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Fab friends

The following few pictures I 'borrowe' from Clare's photo-blog to show you people who are closest and dearest to me in Korea: Clare, Andrea, Chris, and as of recently two fabulous Canadian girls Marja from Toronto and Debbie from "21 hours north of Canada", aka Thunder Bay (northern Ontario).

Countess Clare: a class act from head to toe (including the professionally done fresh French manicure that she's proudly yet ever-so casually displaying). The ocassion: The bi-annual Scottish Ball. She ain't no Pumpkin! Fabulosa!!! Posted by Hello

Chris and Clare at their ball of choice: Muckleshunter. It's a Scottish Dance organized twice a year by the St. Andrew's Society, Seoul Branch Posted by Hello

Queen Regina of China. Regina (Jee-hye) has been workingin China for about a year. Last week she came to visit. She was shopping like there was no tomorrow. Here, I wear one of her purchases that look bizzare on me but actually suit her.  Posted by Hello

My favorite German girl: Andrea  Posted by Hello

Last Sunday Clare, Marja, Andrea and I had dinner at the Thai Orchid in Itaewon: green vegetable curry, yellow chicken curry, beef and broccoli... delicious! Clare bought a new digi-cam that day and this is one of her first photos.  Posted by Hello

Beautiful magnolias at the foot of Bukhansan, seen through Andrea's lense Posted by Hello

A friendly ajumma (on the right, of course). At a restaurant in Juwangsan a friendly ajumma sat down and chatted with me. I, being perpetually friendly, told her that she was beautiful. She looked at me surprised and said in English: "You lesbian?"  Posted by Hello

Two ballerinas? Of course not: Debbie and me streching in Juwangsan national park Posted by Hello

Dancers. CD and I look like we're dancing, but actually he's helping me keep balance while walking backwards - to rest my tired legs and use different set of muscles. It really helps.  Posted by Hello